Enjoy the smoke and more tips for grilling vegetables at a Labor Day barbecue

When barbecue expert Steven Raichlen traveled around the world in search of new barbecue traditions, he was amazed at the similarities in 60 countries.

The way open fires bring people together. The universal acceptance of smoky flavors. The theatrical nature of what could otherwise simply be a family putting food on the table.

“If you have a pot of soup simmering on the stove, no one is going to gather around you and watch the show,” said Raichlen, author of “The Barbecue Bible” and 32 other books.

He wasn’t looking for grilled vegetables. He found them everywhere anyway.

In Italy, there are grilled mushrooms, peppers and even artichokes. In Japan, asparagus strips are put on wafer-thin skewers. In Latin America, corn and chilies are served in countless ways.

Much of what he found ended up in “How to Grill Vegetables,” which is also a nod to his wife, daughter and cousin, who are all vegetarians. “So it’s a kind of self-defense.”

However, he points out that in almost all of his books a considerable section is devoted to vegetables.

“Nothing intensifies the sweetness of a vegetable better than the high, dry heat of the grill,” he said. “In so many cultures, grilled vegetables really have a very important place.”

The first thing to consider is the structure of the vegetable, said Raichlen, and then choose the appropriate method.

As a general rule, vegetables with high moisture content, such as zucchini, peppers and mushrooms, are best grilled directly, that is, over a hot fire with the lid open. He recommends increasing the temperature to 260 to 280 °C.

Denser vegetables such as beets, cauliflower or leeks are best grilled indirectly or cooked next to the fire with the lid closed at 175–200 °C.

Closing the lid provides another opportunity to impart a smoky flavor to the vegetables by adding wood chips or pieces to the fire or the smoke chamber of a gas grill, he said.

“Then you can both smoke and roast, so you end up with an incredible flavor,” he said.

In many cultures, certain vegetables are grilled directly on hot coals, which Raichlen calls “caveman grilling.”

Baba Ganoush, the smoky eggplant dip from the Middle East, is the most famous example.

“It’s an absolutely magical dish because there’s a smoker built into the eggplant,” he said, referring to the thick skin. “You just char the skin and the smoke penetrates the flesh.”

Tomatoes, onions, pumpkin and zucchini also work. Simply fan the embers with newspaper to blow away excess ash. Roast the vegetables on all sides, turning them frequently and scraping off the most burned parts.

In addition to corn, peppers and other usual suspects, Raichlen also has grilling recipes for potatoes, beets, carrots, avocados and even lettuce.

He makes a grilled version of the classic steakhouse wedge salad with a quick homemade dressing and chipotle peppers. Simply cut a head of iceberg lettuce into quarters and sear the cut sides briefly. The edges will sweeten and take on smoky notes while the center stays cool and crispy.

Before grilling, it is best to scrub the grill grate and coat it with vegetable oil – a good tip for all types of grilling. And it is usually a good idea to season vegetables with an olive oil-based marinade beforehand.

Then it’s a “dance on the knife edge” between pleasantly charred and completely burned, said Raichlen. “You try to get as close to burned as possible without actually burning.”

Two recipes from Raichlen’s “How to grill vegetables”:

Servings: 4 to 6, about 2 cups

Time: 10 minutes preparation time, 6 to 10 minutes on the grill

2 small or 1 medium eggplant, about 1 pound

2 large plum tomatoes (Roma tomatoes)

1 large garlic clove, peeled, loosely wrapped in aluminum foil

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly and finely grated lemon peel

2 tablespoons lemon juice

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped dill or parsley

Prepare your grill for ember grilling or “caveman grilling.” Rake the coals into an even layer and fan off any loose ashes. (Alternatively, this recipe can be prepared using direct grilling over high heat.)

Place the vegetables on the coals and grill, turning frequently with tongs, until the skin is charred and the flesh can be easily pierced with a skewer (about 2 minutes for garlic, 4 minutes for tomatoes, and 6 to 10 minutes for eggplant and onions).

Place the vegetables on a rack over a baking sheet to cool. Scrape off any badly burned bits and discard. Roughly chop the vegetables.

Place them in a food processor and blend to a coarse purée. Add the zest and juice and enough extra virgin olive oil to make a loose purée. Add the dill and season to taste with coarse salt and black pepper. Serve with pita bread or chips.

Time: 15 minutes preparation time, 3 to 4 minutes on the grill

1 tablespoon rice vinegar

1 teaspoon chopped canned chipotles in adobo

3 tablespoons chopped coriander or dill

1 head of iceberg lettuce, quartered through the stalk

1⁄4 cup chopped smoked almonds

In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, buttermilk, vinegar, chipotle, and lime zest and juice. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the coriander just before serving.

Prepare your grill for direct, high-heat grilling. Scrape the grill grates clean and coat with vegetable oil.

Brush the cut sides with olive oil. Arrange the pieces diagonally on the grill, cut side down. Grill for 1 to 2 minutes, until lightly seared, turning each piece a quarter turn after 30 to 60 seconds to create a cross-shaped grill pattern. Grill the other cut side, working quickly to keep the center of the lettuce raw.

Place the wedges on a platter, spoon the dressing over them and sprinkle with almonds.

EDITOR’S NOTE: Albert Stumm writes about food, travel and wellness. His work can be found at https://www.albertstumm.com