There is a lot to say about AJ’s Lager House.
It has all the potential in the world, being just around the corner from I-95 on Wickham Road, and features several large dining rooms, a separate bar area, a patio for dining, and a large kitchen that makes you wonder why Uno Pizzeria & Grill ever left the location in the first place.
It’s pleasant too, the photos of old Chicago have been removed and replaced with the clean look of white walls and strategically placed plants, not to mention the Sunshine State flag. It’s cheery, bright and pristine.
The two-page menu is varied, including “teasers,” “shareables,” salads, wings and tenders, a taco bar, bowls, “burgers or no burgers,” handhelds, “fork and knife,” and “sidecars.” It probably would have been smart to make the burgers a subset of the handhelds, but at least it wasn’t one of those 20-page lists that you have to spend half an hour reading through before you can even think about ordering.
Service was quick and friendly and we settled on shrimp tempura ($14), a shrimp po-boy ($18) and a pulled pork sammie ($15). There was a certain amount of disappointment.
Four large prawn tempura were served in a proper ceramic bowl, as expected, although probably should have come with a doily, piece of paper or napkin to soak up the oil. Still, the batter was good and scorching hot. Good. What it covered was completely tasteless and a bit mushy. Not good. The dipping sauce was very similar to the sweet and sour concoctions you get at Asian takeaways. Shrug.
The po-boy was a decently sized toasted, grilled Cuban-style bun with huge shrimp piled high with shredded lettuce, red onion, tomato, and homemade tartar sauce that was pretty tasty. The shrimp, again, had little flavor and the tomato was a touch too pale and… drippy. Still, it was definitely filling.
What was it, we wondered, with AJ’s and flavor? The barbecue sandwich would surely have a culinary aftertaste.
Well, it came on a lightly buttered and toasted bun, with coleslaw and a slice of pickle on one half and a pile of meat drizzled with gravy on the other. God knows there was plenty of it, especially with the deliciously crispy sidewinder fries that came with it.
But no. The pork here was not a taste sensation either. In fact, it was a bit watery, similar to the barbecue you get in the refrigerated section next to the cheese. The sauce was good though, and our only complaint was that there wasn’t enough of it; we’re sure that would have been remedied if we hadn’t had so much time.
We probably would have ordered dessert if we were asked to, but we weren’t, so we didn’t. The same was true for AJ’s lagers or other beers. The answer would probably have been “no, we have to work,” but it would have been great to hear a sales pitch or two. I’m not a beer drinker at all, but I remember ordering and enjoying a cherry beer from a local brewery because the server was so enthusiastic about it.
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The truth is that AJ’s should consider the beer people its greatest asset, as they are a large, highly intelligent and sophisticated community. If you talk to a true beer connoisseur, you’ll think you’re back in science class rather than a dark bar.
The folks at AJ’s should also know that none of the deficiencies found in this review are easily remedied. Season, but not too much. Maybe offer that wonderful remoulade instead of the sauce from the Chinese restaurant. Pull out appropriately seasoned pork just before serving.
I want to return to AJ’s because we live nearby and I want it to become a staple in the Viera Suntree area. You can do it, friends. See you again soon.
AJ’s Lager House
Three starsS
Address: 8260 N. Wickham Road, Viera
Hours: Sunday to Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Call: 321-600-4072
On-line: www.ajslagerhouse.com
Also: A long list of beers, wines and cocktails; gluten-free, vegan and vegetarian dishes are served
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