New Orleans has one of the most famous food scenes in the US, not least because this city has lived organically, so to speak. It is now widely accepted that first-class food and taste come from the mixing of cultures, access to great ingredients and an aversion to shortcuts. New Orleans kitchens have, by and large, embraced this ethos for three centuries. The result is a distinctive, Creole-influenced cuisine that has been internationally famous for more than a minute.
At the same time, New Orleans cuisine is now enlivened by an increasingly international palette; yes, of course there is great gumbo, but the rest of the world now influences the menu as well. Read on for a gastronomic journey through old Creole classics and newer dishes that represent the global influences that laid the foundation for this unique culinary milieu.
Order the freshest fish at Peche
In a city with no shortage of great seafood, Peche somehow always (sorry) manages to make it to the top of our recommended list. The menu changes depending on what people are catching that day, though there are always excellent options for those who don’t like their food with fins. But we insist that you try seafood, preferably in small plate form so you have a nice selection. In the past, we’ve gone crazy for catfish in chili broth or a whole grilled red snapper that put a grin on our faces and left us extremely full. The lively dining room gets crowded and reservations are essential.
How to get it: Peche offers fine dining in a casual atmosphere. Dress up and reserve a table about a month in advance through the restaurant’s website or through Resy.
The best beignets are at Dough Nguyener’s
Vietnamese food is as intertwined with South Louisiana cuisine as po’boys. But in the 2020s, we’ve reached a tipping point where Vietnamese food isn’t just an option in New Orleans; rather, Vietnamese-American chefs are redefining local classics. Dough Nguyener’s, a bakery and restaurant just outside of New Orleans on the West Bank, is a great example of this phenomenon. Run by Vietnamese-Americans, these geniuses spit out insanely good chicken and banh mi, while the baked goods include a wonderful twist on the classic beignet.
How to get it: This is a casual place; no reservations and it fills up quickly on weekends. It’s about 8 miles south of town, so you’ll need a car to get here. It gets busy during weekend brunch hours.
Let yourself be enchanted by Saba’s hummus
The brainchild of James Beard Award-winner Alon Shaya, Saba’s handsome interiors attract a clientele as attractive and affluent as the surrounding uptown neighborhood. And despite all that elegant atmosphere, the food feels like a refined version of a hearty meal your grandparents would have served you—fitting, since “saba” means “grandfather” in Hebrew. This place serves food from across the Jewish diaspora; if you come here, do yourself a favor and order the hummus. There are several versions, including the decadent blue crab hummus, which you can splurge on, and an intensely spicy version with Brussels sprouts, black garlic, and pickled jalapenos.
How to get it: Make a reservation a few weeks in advance through Resy and dress up a little. Saba has a lovely outdoor dining area which we recommend when the weather is nice.
Try curry chicken at Queen Trini Lisa
New Orleans is considered the northernmost Caribbean city in the world, and Queen Trini Lisa keeps this city firmly in the gastronomic orbit of these islands. Serving up Trinidadian delicacies since her days in an old grocery store, Queen Trini brings the heat and flavor of Trinidad and Tobago to a Mid-City restaurant, without pretension and with prices that are a cool relief in an age of menu price shock. Her jerk chicken is her most famous dish, but we order the chicken curry, which is served with tropical depth and a hint of heat that leaves us thirsting for a side of Caribbean spinach and fried plantains (in that sense, the vegan plate here is a prime example of the genre).
How to get it: Reservations are not required and the restaurant is rarely busy. We found service to be quickest during early dinner hours (5:30-6:30 p.m.).
Some raw oysters at Pascal’s Manale
The interior of Pascal’s Manale really exudes a genuine “oh, is that a lost-Sopranos-episode” atmosphere, all black-and-white photos and clubby, buddy banter between the locals. That whole atmosphere is delicious enough, but what about the food? There are steaks and plates of pasta the size of your face, and they’re all good, but we’re telling you, you should come for the raw oyster bar, which deserves an exhibit hall in the Smithsonian. This piece of city history is accompanied by an oyster opener who will cajole you, cajole you, joke with you, and finally serve you a plate of beautiful, glittering jewels of the sea. Slurp them. Wash them down with white wine. Repeat, repeat, repeat.
How to get it: Reservations aren’t necessary, but be sure to dress up. Pascal’s Raw Bar gets busy around 5 a.m., but the oyster openers know their stuff and it moves quickly.
Enjoy the shrimp sauce at Liuzza’s by the Track
At Liuzza’s by the Track, you get your beer in a goblet. A goblet. They also have duck fillets, a fried oyster and garlic po’boy sandwich that’s almost illegally good, and a couple of slot machines, all just steps from the city’s famous racetrack (which happens to be home to Jazz Fest). You have to order the grilled shrimp here, though. FYI: It’s not real barbecue. Down here, that means the shrimp is simmered in an incredibly rich garlic butter sauce that will leave you in the happiest sweats of your life. Bring some extra bread, because you’re definitely going to want to dip it in the sauce.
How to get it: Liuzza’s does not take reservations. It is often full at lunchtime and in the evenings, so you have to wait for a table. Most regulars use this time to go to the in-house bar.
Wait for a Reuben at Stein’s
You probably came to New Orleans because you wanted a po’boy, the most famous version of a sub in town (or maybe the sub is the Yankee version of the po’boy). But there are more ways to consume ingredients between bread than the justly famous po’boy, and Stein’s, a local deli par excellence, is ready to take on any protein-carb combo your hometown can muster. Wait in line (there’s inevitably a line), peruse the fridge of craft beers and sodas, buy one of said beverages, and don’t be intimidated by Dan Stein himself, who comes across as gruff but is somehow a sweetheart. All of the sandwiches are good; the Reuben and the Rachel stand out as the magic of supreme sand witchcraft.
How to get it: Stein’s doesn’t take reservations and is busy between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. The line moves quickly, but when orders pile up, be prepared to wait.
Fill up at Parkway: Shrimp Po’boy and fries with gravy
Did we just say that po’boys aren’t the only sandwiches in New Orleans? Absolutely. You still have to have a po’boy, and the faded yellow cornbread at Parkway Bakery & Tavern, perched on the banks of Bayou St. John, is for the connoisseur. Provided the connoisseur likes good chips and gravy. But if you’re a fast-food eater, skip the carbs and just get a po’boy with fried shrimp, preferably “dressed” (lettuce, tomatoes, pickles, onions, mayo). That’s a lot of fried seafood on bread—walk it off afterward along the banks of the bayou, the city’s most beautiful inland waterway.
How to get it: No reservations required. Parkway gets crowded during lunch hours, but there is an efficient system in place to keep the long lines moving.
Burn your tongue with the pani puri at Mister Mao
Smoke licks off the fire pans at Mister Mao, and you can watch it while sitting at the bar, making for excellent dinner theater. Grab a cocktail and take a journey through contemporary interpretations of cuisine from across China and Southeast Asia, including ginger salads and avocado chaat. Be sure to order a round pani puri: These little balls of fluffy deliciousness – filled to the brim with potato masala, chutney and pickled blueberries – are like an international party in your mouth.
How to get it: This is a popular spot and reservations (book a month in advance) are a must; the restaurant prefers that you book through Resy.
Satisfy your sweet tooth with ice cream at Lucy Boone
It almost goes without saying that New Orleans is hot. Very hot. And the tastiest culinary equivalent of “very hot” is ice cream. For exceptional local ice cream, head to Lucy Boone, a small, family-run operation that specializes in just a few flavors at a time, including Key Lime Pie and Nutella Brownie. Order whatever you want, because you won’t go wrong.
How to get it: You can come in at any time. There are two or three tables here, so there may be a line, but it moves quickly (though you may not want that ice cream).
