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Did you know that the second most photographed clock in Britain – after Big Ben – is in Chester? Unless you’re from here or a clockmaker, you probably didn’t know that, like me. This beautiful clock is called the Eastgate, and when you see it, it’s easy to see why passers-by can’t help but snap a photo.
That wasn’t the only thing I didn’t know before visiting the city – aside from its numerous Tudor buildings, rich Roman history and many pretty cobbled streets – I also didn’t know that it’s a pretty great place for foodies.
Chester may not be the first city that springs to mind as a foodie destination, but it has a lot to offer. It’s small, everything is within walking distance, there’s a pretty canal to stroll along… and plenty of places to stuff your mouth with great stuff.
Take Twenty Eight, for example, who are doing really exciting things, particularly with vegetables. On their sharing menu, certain things are marked in green to highlight the ingredients grown on their farm, Growing @ Field 28. Their seed-to-plate ethos makes for colourful, fresh and vibrant meals: beetroot tartare with parsley mayonnaise is tangy and smoky; flamed mackerel with pickled radish and swede is tender yet complex; a crispy zucchini flower filled with a salty feta mousse is insanely good.
A few things are a little lacking, but only a little, namely a cheese and chive potato salad that just didn’t taste like much, and a lemon cream pie that should have had a little more, well, lemon. Overall, though, it’s a stunning lunch that will leave you feeling refreshed and invigorated.
It’s not just the food that makes Chester interesting, though. What really struck me was the undeniable sense of community in the place. Admittedly, as a Londoner, I’m not particularly interested in this. I know that neighbourhood support exists in some areas of the city, but in Chester it’s on a concentrated scale.
The business owners seem to know each other by their first names—and that has one common benefit: a sort of “I scratch your hand, I scratch my hand” attitude, whether it’s discounts, free meals, exchanging supplies, or a last-minute helping hand. I can follow that common thread almost everywhere I go.
From a delicious lunch at Twenty Eight to embarking on a mission to ‘eat as much as possible in 24 hours’, reminisce about the day at Kookaburra Bakehouse, an Australian-style bakery run by Sydney-born Jess. Not only does she supply local pubs with rich sourdough focaccia, but her handmade pastries are simply genius; from cookie dough croissants to kim cheese muffins. What started as a self-taught hobby during lockdown, when she delivered bread to local grannies on her bike, is now a thriving business with a steady flow of loyal customers.
From sweet to savory, The Cheese Shop has been around for 35 years, passed down from mother to daughter. Although they have cheeses from all over the world, they place a strong emphasis on local produce – which pairs beautifully with mead. The sweet, liquid gold balances the rich dairy products beautifully, especially the tartness of Burt’s Blue, a smooth and creamy – you guessed it – blue cheese. For those who haven’t tried it, I recommend having a glass of medium-strength mead with your next cheese board.
For purists who prefer to stick to wine, Vin Santo on Watergate Street is worth a visit for the building alone. The shop and bar are located in a 13th century vaulted cellar that hits you in the face with that old, churchy smell that just smacks of history. The folks there really know their stuff and offer tastings, along with nibbles from none other than The Cheese Shop.
In typical North West fashion, it rains for much of the stay, but it’s worth packing an umbrella and wandering around as there’s plenty to see; be it the aforementioned clock, Chester Cathedral, where the Duke of Westminster has just been married (I had no idea who that was, but he apparently owns Mayfair), or the Storyhouse, a building that seamlessly serves as a library, cinema, theatre, social room and restaurant.
For dinner, head to Upstairs at the Grill, which has been something of an institution in the city for over 20 years. The upstairs patio is a lovely combination of what I would call sheltered alfresco dining. You feel like you’re outside but are actually sheltered from all the elements; warmly lit and intimate. A New York style steakhouse that has everything you’d expect: shrimp cocktail, oysters, scallops, steak, fries, creamed spinach, etc. etc.
Some dishes are perfect – my fillet steak is stunning, well-rested, tender and melts in the mouth beautifully with whipped truffle butter, while my guest’s medium rare rib-eye is a little bloody. Chicken salt chips are fantastic, while chips in beef fat are a little unwieldy and more like fried potatoes. The Golden Delicious dessert is more about style than substance, all theatre and not much flavour, while my crème brûlée left me wanting more, in a good way.
Overall, though, the service, friendly staff, and deliciousness of everything else make up for some relatively minor quirks (maybe it helped that all of my food was great—maybe I’m just good at ordering). I also liked the somewhat playful idea of choosing my steak from a platter of raw meat so large that our lovely waiter was nearly incapacitated when he stood up, as well as my weapon of choice from a wide selection of steak knives, from the sensible to the obscene.
Our stay at the Moxy was very pleasant and had everything you need for an overnight stay: a fairly good breakfast, a nice clean room and nice staff with classic northwest charm. The place has quite a young vibe and seems to be great for group trips, birthdays and stag parties. As for getting there, in true Avanti West Coast style, our outbound train journey was smooth, hassle-free and pleasant, while the return journey was the same – just the exact opposite.
Next time you’re looking to get away for the weekend, whether with friends or your partner, maybe try something different to Edinburgh, Brighton, Manchester and Liverpool and give Chester a try. It surprised me and might do the same for you.
