The Donner Party Hike (DPH) combines a love of the Sierra Nevada wilderness with its history. The history of Donner Summit Pass has many “firsts,” including:
– First covered wagon train to California, 1844
– First transcontinental telegraph, October 24, 1861
– First transcontinental railroad, May 10, 1869
– First transcontinental bicycle journey, 1884 by Thomas Stevens
– First transcontinental motorcycle journey, 1903 by George Wyman
– First transcontinental Lincoln Highway, 1913
– First transcontinental telephone connection, 1914-1915
– First transcontinental US airmail route, May 15, 1918
This year’s DPH will be held on September 7 and 8, 2024. On the first day, Saturday, September 7, you will have a choice of 7 different hikes (of varying difficulty levels), lunch, and afternoon entertainment. On the second day, Sunday, September 8, there will be a historical walking tour. Each hike will be led by historians who will tell the history of that particular part of Donner Summit and other significant areas. The beauty of the DPH is that you can choose the area that interests you. To help you do this, below is a summary of what you will see and learn on each hike.
Hike Summary: Saturday, September 7
Historic Donner Pass (moderate, 2.5 miles, 8:30 a.m. departure). This hike is full of breathtaking views and incredible history. You’ll see where the pioneers were stranded in 1846 and the gorge that blocked their path. Ironically, the transcontinental railroad blasted through granite, building miles of snow floes and tunnels here. You’ll learn about the “Starved Camp,” the catfish pond, and why the giant concrete letters “SF” and “SL” are set into a ridge above.
Railroad Summit Tunnel and More (moderate, 2.5 miles, 8:30am departure). Tunnel 6 was an engineering marvel that the Chinese dug through 1659 feet of solid granite. This hike is a must-do. Walk through the tunnel and marvel at what a feat it was and how the mules must have been blindfolded. Then stand on the Great Wall of China, walk past the largest railroad camp, and see the plaque dedicated to the successful Stephens-Townsend-Murphy group.
Summit Valley (moderate, 4 miles, 8:30 a.m. departure). Summit Valley tells the story of the Van Norden Dam, Van Norden Lake and its current transformation. Learn about the Native Americans in this area and how they lived and traded, hike the Dutch Flat Donner Lake Wagon Road, see the remains of the sheep ranch and shepherd’s cabin and finally the ruts still left by the original emigrant trail. On the way back, you will understand what it meant to pass through here either by stagecoach or by car.
Summit Canyon/Dutch Flat Donner Lake Wagon Road (moderate, 3 miles, 8:30 a.m. departure) This hike is all downhill and takes you through California’s most significant square mile with all its “firsts,” including 2,000-4,000 year old petroglyphs, a Chinese railroad camp, and spectacular views.
Roller Pass/Judah Loop (strenuous, 6 miles, 1100′ elevation gain, 8am departure time). This is one of the most popular hikes on the summit, but with DPH it is narrated with stories along the route. You will learn about Roller Pass, rope tows, Sugar Bowl, Emigrant Trail and Sierra Crest Trail, the first locomotives over the summit (not on rails), the Chinese railroad workers’ camp, Red Mountain, the first transcontinental air route, and then the indescribable views from the summit of Mount Judah.
Donner Peak/Coldstream Pass (strenuous, 4.5 miles, 8:30 a.m. departure time). This hike is a great option for those who don’t want to do the entire Judah Loop. Walking across granite slabs, you’ll be rewarded with views from a ledge nearly 2,000 feet above Donner Lake. Then there are numerous stories about the Emigrant Trail, Coldstream Pass, Theodore Judah, rope tows, and more. It’s uphill the whole way but downhill back.
High Sierra Lakes (strenuous, 6 miles, 8:00 a.m. departure time). This unique hike not only offers incredible history and spectacular views, but also three mountain lakes nestled in the forest. There’s crime, a sword in the stone, and you can brag that you “hiked the world-famous Pacific Crest Trail,” which runs from Mexico to Canada.
Entertainment and speakers on Saturday after the hike
After lunch, Saturday walkers will be entertained by a Chautauqua featuring Touch of Gold and Alice and the Wonderlandz, who tell the story of the Donner Party and Eliza Donner through song and story. (Note: A Chautauqua is a traveling show that flourished in the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It provided popular education with entertainment in the form of lectures, concerts and plays and was modeled after the Chautauqua Institution in western New York State.)
There will also be a presentation by Tim Twietmeyer (co-inventor of historic expeditions) who will present the repeat of the Snowshoe Thompson route across the Sierra in January 2024. The afternoon entertainment begins after lunch and lasts until approximately 2:30 p.m.
Hike Summary: Sunday, September 8
Historic Walking Tour (easy 0.5 mile, departure time 9:00 am). Relive the grueling journey and misadventures of the Donner Party on this easy walk. From the picnic area, head to Donner Memorial State Park to see the Murphy Cabin and Pioneer Monument. Park admission is included, so enjoy the afternoon and visit the Emigrant Trail Museum and watch the documentary.
Hiking logistics
All Saturday hikes are at Donner Ski Ranch on Highway 40 (Soda Springs exit from I-80). Remember, meeting times vary depending on the hike you choose.
The meeting point for the hike on Sunday is the Donner Camp picnic area (such an inappropriate name) on Highway 89, about 8 miles north of Truckee.
Bring a small daypack, water, layers of clothing, a camera, hat, camera, light snacks, sunscreen, sunglasses, tissues, and a small trash bag. Please do not bring pets and do not wear open-toed or smooth-soled shoes.
Pre-registration is required. Please visit donnerpartyhike.com to register and enjoy the fun and beauty of Donner Summit.
Judy DePuy lives here in Tahoe Donner with her husband Dave and their dog Morticia.
