No, the month doesn’t have to have an “r” if you want to eat oysters. Irish rock oysters (Crassostrea gigas), also known as Pacific oysters, are available 52 weeks a year, so those are the oysters you’ve been eating. There are many top producers in the country, including Kelly’s, Harty, Dooncastle and Flaggy Shore oysters.
The association with the ‘r’ in the month refers to the native flat oyster (Ostrea edulis). It is seasonal as it spawns in Irish waters during the summer months. It is not available during this time but is available from September to April. Rock oysters do not spawn in the cold waters around Ireland and are therefore available all year round. They were introduced to the country in the 1970s when native stocks were declining due to overfishing and disease.
There is quite a difference between the two oysters. The native flat oyster, or Galway flat oyster (which is the same species as the French Belon oyster), is a round, flat oyster native to Europe. It takes five years to mature – twice as long as the teardrop-shaped rock oyster, which is available year-round.
( Russ Parsons: Some of the best oysters I’ve tasted come from Ireland, but why are they so rarely sold here?Opens in new window. )
According to Michael Kelly of Kelly Oysters, the native oysters and the rock oysters taste very different, even though they are farmed in the same body of water. The wild flat oyster grows deeper on the sea floor and feeds on the heavier phytoplankton. A mature oyster can filter up to 11 liters per hour. The rock oyster grows higher up on the shore and feeds on lighter, more delicate phytoplankton, so it has a lighter flavor. The texture of the native oyster is very meaty and firm, and it has a stronger, heavier, more metallic flavor.
Look out for local oysters to hit the menu in September and do a taste test to compare the two types at a special venue like the Shelbourne. Add a glass of champagne or chilled Chablis and you’re in for a real treat.
