The late Shozaburo Dogura, a successful entrepreneur and early environmentalist in Japan, would be proud of the line of wines that his great-granddaughter Miki Cunat helped develop in his honor at the Materra Cunat Family Vineyards in Napa.
One of the most notable of these wines is our Wine of the Week winner – the Yamabuki, 2023 Oak Knoll District, Napa Valley Albariño ($38). Made by Director of Winemaking Chelsea Barrett, it’s a light, vibrant and distinctive Albariño with notes of pineapple, orange peel and minerals.
Yamabuki is a member of the rose family and is a bright yellow flower that blooms in Japan from April to May. In the country’s flower language, Hanakotoba, it means “elegance” or “money luck.” It is a fitting tribute to Dogura, who was wealthy.
In addition to his work in forestry, Dogura was involved in the construction of roads in Japan and railways in Taiwan, supported several newspapers, and was the founder of several prestigious schools, including Nihon Joshi Daigaku (Japan’s first women’s university) and Doshisha University.
An unsung white wine
Albariño, a white grape variety from the Galicia region of northwestern Spain, is a rare grape variety in California.
“Albariño is not very widely grown in this area, which makes it a new taste experience for many,” explained Barrett. “Albariño is a wonderful wine that pairs well with food, from seafood to tomato-based dishes to paella.”
The Napa winery planted Albariño vines for the first time in 2020. The 2023 vintage will be the first bottling of these grapes.
“Working with younger vines requires work to ensure their root systems and crowns are set up for long-term success,” explained Barrett. “We are fortunate with the exceptional growing conditions of our property and 2023 offers a very nutrient-rich growing season.”
Barrett grew up in Calistoga and later studied at UC Davis, where she graduated with a degree in viticulture and enology in 2010. After college, she worked for Opus One in Oakville and Joel Gott Wines in Napa and St. Helena. She then worked with her mother, Heidi Barrett, on the Amuse Bouche, Au Sommet and Aviatrix labels in Calistoga before taking over winemaking at Materra in 2019.
A brand new 930 square meter tasting room
Founded in 2007 by Brian and Miki Cunat, Materra produces fewer than 10,000 cases of wine annually. In addition to Albariño, the winery also produces Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Sirah and Syrah.
In June, the winery opened a new 930 square meter tasting and event area. The spacious space offers indoor and outdoor tastings and features 25-foot ceilings, skylights and a covered patio.
The large gallery space houses a rotating collection of the Cunat family’s treasured items, from Japanese antiques to vintage cars. There is also a private event room and catering kitchen.
The vision is a full-time chef combining traditional Japanese dishes with the winery’s Japanese wine range.
“We are extremely excited to be able to give our guests a little taste of our newly opened tasting room,” said Barrett, adding that the Yamabuki Albariño is one of the most intriguing in the range.
“It’s wonderful because our property is perfect for growing phenomenal Albariños,” she said.
Reach wine writer Peg Melnik at 707-521-5310 or [email protected]. On X (Twitter) @pegmelnik.
