Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami with a dollop of caviar | Photo credit: Special arrangement
To be honest, Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami is best enjoyed neat. After a dollop of caviar.
Launched last weekend at the Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai and created by the brand’s first female Master Blender, Emma Walker, and Chef Kei Kobayashi, the Scotch features delicate yet distinctive piquant notes.
Master Blender Emma Walker and Chef Kei Kobayashi | Photo credit: Special arrangement
Speaking about the idea of finding umami in whisky, Emma explains: “Chef Kei and I met in June 2022 at the chef’s restaurant – Restaurant Kei – in Paris. The initial challenge was to bring together our expertise in whisky making and creative gastronomy. We hand-selected whiskies as if they were ingredients – from salty, smoky notes to savory and meaty flavors. As we sipped and smelled, we made sure we knew the ingredients, but at the same time left room for recommendations and comments based on our expertise.”
Emma examines the Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami | Photo credit: Special arrangement
Selected casks from inland and coastal distilleries have been handpicked for their unique umami profile. The 43% ABV (alcohol by volume of spirit) whisky is a combination of sweet and savoury on the nose, with hints of fresh green apples balancing the brine.
Speaking at the launch, Ruchira Jaitly, head of marketing at Diageo India, said the spirit appeals to a new Scotch audience: “Previously, the drinking style was more conservative and closed. Now it is more inclusive and accommodating, targeting a young, affluent and enterprising audience who want to enjoy rare Scotch with friends rather than saving it for big occasions.”
Chef Kei Kobayashi | Photo credit: Special arrangement
Only 2,000 bottles of the umami-rich scotch are available in India (price on request). The spirit “is delicious, with notes of apple and white peach,” says Emma. Notes of mandarin, blood orange and red berries add complexity, with a lingering finish of sweet wood spices, hints of smoked meat, warming salt and pepper and a long, sweet fruit finish.
The Master Blender adds: “We wanted to create a whisky that would transport you to a forest at dawn, as the night air slowly gives way to the warmth of day, and that would reflect Chef Kei’s memories of early morning walks in the stunning Japanese mountains in Nagano. For the Chef, cuisine is made up of two things: earth and sea, and he sees Johnnie Walker Blue Label as a sea of flavours.”
Only 2,000 bottles of the umami-rich Scotch are available in India | Photo credit: Special arrangement
At the event, Chef Dharshan Munidasa, Goodwill Ambassador of Japanese Cuisine, took attendees on a journey of discovery through all five senses, with each course tailored to appeal to the mind. Wind/Kaze, Earth/Tsuchi and Water/Mizu-themed courses showcased layers of umami in broths, mushrooms and ramen, and dessert included Shibuya-style French toast with a Johnnie Walker Blue Label Elusive Umami Diffuser. “Certain seasonings can bring out the umami, for example salt makes watermelon sweeter, and carrots, tomatoes and cheese bring out stronger flavours hidden beneath the surface. Chicken stock added to shellfish extracts umami from the shell, creating notes of charcoal that are still sweet, smoky and smooth,” explains Dharshan.
What is umami?
In 1908, Japanese professor Kikunae Ikeda of the Imperial University of Tokyo (now the University of Tokyo) noticed a taste that did not fit into any of the categories of sweet, salty, sour, or bitter. The isolated crystals that imparted the taste were made of glutamate, one of the most common amino acids in food and in the human body. This unique taste was called umami – “essence of deliciousness.” Following in Kikunae’s footsteps, other Japanese scientists discovered the umami substances inosinate and guanylate. Glutamate, now synonymous with MSG (monosodium glutamate), is found in meat, fish, and vegetables such as tomatoes. Inosinate is found in meat and fish, while guanylate is found in dried mushroom products such as dried shiitake mushrooms.
