On board an octopus? TAP Air Portugal’s pursuit of “Portugality”

TAP Air Portugal serves a country of just over 10 million inhabitants and therefore had to look beyond its own borders to grow in size. A strategy that worked. Today, only 20% of TAP passengers are Portuguese.

But if only one in five passengers is from Portugal, how Portuguese can you be – or should you be?

This is the question that concerns Catarina Índio, Head of Onboard and Ground Products at TAP. She joined the national airline last year and has made it her mission to improve the passenger experience at all levels.

In conversation with Skift On the outskirts of Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado airport, Índio keeps using one word: “Portugueseness.”

If you walk through the corridors of TAP headquarters, you will hear this term frequently. Simply put, the aim is to reflect Portuguese culture, cuisine and products as part of the journey.

What may initially seem like a superficial marketing concept is rooted in a strong business sense. Distinctiveness is a competitive advantage.

“On certain routes where we have strong competition, we don’t make it a special differentiator. Our commitment is to have Portugality on board whether you fly to Brazil or short-haul flights in Europe,” says Índio.

A delicate balance for airlines

How exactly does an airline put this concept into practice? One of TAP’s flagship projects under the “Portugality” program is the “Local Stars” initiative. It will launch in March 2023 and run until April next year. Business class passengers on long-haul flights from Lisbon will be offered a tailor-made menu.

Twelve chefs representing regions of mainland Portugal and its Atlantic islands are tasked with creating dishes that showcase the region while taking into account seasonality and the practical aspects of dining at 10,670 metres altitude.

Engaging social media videos and bonus content are available online to support the campaign. The current menu focuses on crayfish from the central Lezíria do Tejo region.

Anything for us mere mortals?

Creating a locally focused experience for high-spending passengers is one thing, but what about the 90% of customers who travel in economy class?

“Our commitment is exactly the same,” says Índio. “When we create the menus for economy class, we still focus on the Portuguese style. We ask for local recipes and local ingredients. For example, many other international airlines like to serve curry in economy class. You won’t see that with us. Our goal is that no matter where you sit on the plane, you feel like you are in Portugal.”

While such commitments are noble, airline profitability is more important than platitudes. When asked if TAP would pay more for a distinctive local supplier, Índio answers with a resounding “yes.”

“In our procurement process, we ask for Portuguese suppliers, but it is not always easy. Taking additional consideration of local companies is the only way, even if it costs us a little more.” The TAP manager reveals that currently 70% of the airline’s onboard products are sourced from Portuguese companies and that this figure is set to increase.

How much is too much?

This prioritization of domestic business is evident throughout the company. From the leather used for the aircraft seats to the amenity kits. Every drop of wine is sourced locally. But is there such a thing as too much Portugality? This is where the octopus comes into play.

“The difficulty is finding the balance between international requirements. Many foreigners don’t think octopus is a good dish, but here it is very traditional,” says Índio. “So the question is: should we serve them octopus? We have to think carefully about our passengers who are not from Portugal and who may not want to eat the same things. It is not easy to find the right balance and reconcile all these things.”

When asked about the outcome of the octopus dilemma, Índio confirms: “Yes, we have successfully served octopus and we will do it again – but our passengers will always have a choice.”

Although tentacles are no longer taboo, there are a handful of traditional products that are extremely popular in Portuguese society and that you will never find on board.

Pork, a staple of many recipes, is often replaced with smoked turkey to maintain the traditional flavor profile while accommodating religious and cultural dietary restrictions. Cheese is another consideration. Only pasteurized dairy products may be served, limiting TAP’s ability to showcase some of the country’s finest cheeses.

Food and wine are one of the country’s assets, but not the only way to gain a clear edge over international competitors. In June, TAP launched its first Altitude Film Festival. Not only does it bring original content to the airline’s in-flight entertainment system, but it also offers filmmakers the opportunity to showcase their work on a truly global stage. Notably, all films submitted for selection must focus on Portuguese culture and/or have been shot on Portuguese territory.

A panel of experts is currently selecting ten films that will be available on board long-haul passengers in October. Travelers can then nominate their favorite in a poll. The final winners will be announced later in the year.

Why knowledge is power

Whether customers are flying high up in 1A or in a less enviable economy seat near the lavatories, Índio says passenger feedback plays a crucial role in improving the onboard experience. Cabin crew produce detailed reports after each flight, which are analyzed by a team at headquarters to find improvements and identify trends.

Índio notes that this feedback loop helps the airline address specific issues: “On an average day, we receive about 80 cabin reports, and even more during peak summer season. Of course, you can’t change an entire menu based on a single experience, but when you suddenly have 10 reports with comments on a particular dish, you have to see what’s going on.”

Índio’s team also closely monitors the airline’s Net Promoter Score (NPS), a key metric for evaluating customer satisfaction. “Even if our passengers are just passing through, there is at least one flight departing from Portugal on every trip. This is our chance to really showcase the country and differentiate ourselves from others,” says Índio.

TAP’s Stopover program is one of the most popular in the industry. The initiative brought more than 200,000 additional visitors to the country last year. Transferring passengers can make a free stopover in Lisbon or the northern city of Porto during their journey. This can be on the outbound or return flight and last between one and ten days.

But Índio is keen to ensure that those who do not leave the airport get a full taste of local hospitality. “Today I am the airline, but tomorrow I may be the passenger. We put ourselves in their shoes. If I were to visit our airport lounge in Lisbon, would I be happy with sandwiches and chips? The answer is no.”